Antarctic Ice to Polynesian Sun

February – March 2002

Intro

Antarctica! I went to so many other amazing places on this trip, but.. Antarctica! How am I going to peel myself away to talk about anywhere else? I will try. But first, Antarctica. So, funny story, back in 2001 I was in a bookstore (travel section, obviously), browsing around, and I came upon Lonely Planet’s ‘Antarctica’. My first thought: “You can go to Antarctica?!” My second thought: “Why is the book so thick?!” Apparently,

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not only could you go there, but there was a lot do in Antarctica!

Needless to say, I bought the book that day, and started planning. I found a company which led small group expeditions (only 50 people!) to the icy continent on a Russian icebreaker, departing from the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia, Argentina. So building an itinerary around this 10-day ‘cruise’ to Antarctica, I decided to tack on Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Paraguay, Chile, Easter Island, and French Polynesia. Seriously, what is wrong with me?

You’d think with all my planning, I would have thought, hey, maybe you shouldn’t combine one of the coldest places on earth with one of the warmest places on earth on the same trip! Packing all of a sudden became a problem. With all the gear I had to buy for Antarctica, including Wellington boots, a parka, and plenty of thermal underwear, I had little room left for shorts, T-shirts and sandals. I ended up having to lug around a huge suitcase for over a month!

Buenos Aires was amazing, despite my being there in the midst of its financial crisis. Montevideo was great too, and seemed almost too lively until I realized it was their Carnaval! The Iguazu Falls in Brazil were majestic, Santiago’s Plaza de Armas is one of my favorite public spaces in the world, and Easter Island’s moai – incredible. Ending the trip in the gorgeous and sunny island of Bora Bora, with an overwater bungalow and glass floor was just beyond –

But, Antarctica!! It’s almost impossible to describe the feeling of being here. I almost don’t want to, because I can’t do it justice. It’s a place so untouched by the world that it’s eerie, in the most spectacular way. The absence of waves past the Antarctic Circle allow for perfect, clear reflections of towering glaciers in the ice-speckled water below. Baby penguins approach you because they are young and innocent and curious. Immaculate, pure, powdery white snow lies everywhere you look, and footprints are non-existent. It’s too perfect, too serene, too magical – it’s heavenly. And to top it all off, I spent my 22^nd birthday here. What a gift!

Journey Map

Featured Image

Baily Head, Deception Island, Antarctica

Hundreds of thousands of Chinstrap Penguins make Baily Head their breeding ground each year. As most of them waddle around behind me, some very curious young’uns who haven’t seen us humans before, are very attracted to my very red boxer shorts. I was told it’s because of the color, but that’s nonsense. I firmly believe it’s because my shorts are actually covered with dozens of little penguins (really).