iran

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Silence and Flattery: A Most Unusual Border Crossing

We approached the busy border town of Jolfa, my mind overwrought with contrasting emotions. On one hand, I was already missing Iran, recalling fondly the architectural treasures I’d seen over the past nine days with my government-required guide and driver, Ahmad.

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Esfahan: ‘Half the World’ in One Amazing Day

Esfahan.  Finally.  This is the real reason I am here in Iran.  After years of dreaming about visiting this city, I am actually here, and I couldn’t be more excited.  The ruins of Persepolis were absolutely fascinating, and I’m sure that the big city sights and sounds of Tehran will be exhilarating, but it is […]